Film Director Mani Ratnam is a genius when finding the perfect location for romantic duets in his movies. Its like as though the beauty of the place plays a major quotient in bringing out the best in romance. And when the famous Snehithane Snehithane song from Alaipayuthe went popular, I was drooling looking at not only Madhavan but also the beautiful location where they were romancing at. I did not know where the song was shot back then, but when I visited Maheshwar I immediately recognized that this was where the song was shot! I visited this place in December 2016 but then I treasured it like few moments should belong to only me, something am possessive about that I did not want to share pics or write about it. :D Yeah, I am that selfish! But then I recently saw Pad Man movie trailer of Akhsay Kumar and he was also standing on those steps of Ahilya fort at Maheshwar and was romancing Radhika Apte. I immediately got carried away to me standing on those very steps and enjoying the sunset as the slow life of Maheshwar was passing by. And so, here are some memories of this beautiful place, pictures and places to visit in Maheshwar
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The unique steps from Ahilya ghat leading to the Ahilya fort. The famous shooting spot seen in many movies[/caption]
Maheshwar had loads of surprise for me. This was a trip I did with my friend and we had it in our itinerary because it was equidistant to Mandu and Omkareshwar. So we had decided to have Maheshwar as base to cover these places. Until I visited the place, all I knew was that there is a highly luxurious property to stay called Ahilya Heritage hotel which I cannot afford but can only drool looking at the pictures. I did not know about Ahilyabai or Holkar dynasty or about the Maheshwar fort itself. In fact my return ticket read, flying out of Indore from Devi Ahilya Airport and I did not even realize it or lookup to read about her. I was too excited about touring Madhya Pradesh that I did not give heed to other details. Driving into Maheshwar, the first impression was that it is of a small town with shops and markets clustered in couple of streets and the town tried to wing away from it. There was not even many options to stay at Maheshwar. Luckily we had the best option to stay at Kanchan Recreation. It is a home that has been converted into a hotel which I would still like to call it as homestay. Home cooked food, friendly staff, good service, spacious rooms like that of your house, needs to be called a home stay right! It was noon by the time we reached and we decided to visit the Ahilyabai fort and palace before heading to the ghats.
Book your stay at Maheshwar with Kanchan Recreation here - Click here
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By the Narmada ghat - a temple at Ahilya Ghat[/caption]
Also Read: Omkareshwar Jyotirlinga – By the Banks of River Narmada


Little bit about Devi Ahilyabai and Holkar Dynasty
Ahilyabai Holkar - the epitome of woman empowerment much ahead of those times! I quickly became a fan of her after reading about her history and life and also felt bad that I was ignorant about this queen for so long. We might have known queens for their bravery and valor or for their beauty but here is a queen who is known for her humbleness and simplicity as well showing immense courage, bravery and sensibility. She was not a born princess. She was born in a village yet educated by her father in those yesteryears itself, this is somewhere in the 1700s. It was by mere accident that Malhar Rao, founder of the Holkar dynasty, found her and brought her with him to the Holkar territory to make her the bride for his son. Ahilyabai was just an 8 year old when she got married to KhandeRao Holkar. Her husband dies in a battle when she is just 30yrs. And unlike the traditions of the past, Malhar Rao, her father in law, prevents her from performing Sati. He starts involving her in the court affairs and he starts encouraging her to lead army troupes. When Malhar Rao passes away, the grandson takes the throne but unfortunately within eight months he dies too. Now Ahilyabai after losing her husband, only son and her father in law, decides to take the reign in her hands, her army roots for her leadership and she becomes the ruler of Malwa (the region of central Madhya Pradesh is called Malwa). Having capital as Maheshwar she starts ruling Malwa region in the most peaceful and enlightened manner for the next thirty years. [caption id="attachment_2058" align="aligncenter" width="961"]
AhilyaBai Fort and Palace
The main attraction at Maheshwar is the Ahilyabai's palace and fort. Parking the vehicle at the entrance and walking towards the palace, I can hear the sound of weavers going tipatty tap with their hand loom machines. Like I said, the Rajwada is actually just a home and revered like a temple by the people of Maheshwar. I removed my slippers and went into the rajwada. A courtyard with greenery in the middle and few rooms above just like those old style houses with tiled roofs welcomed me. One side is the durbar hall which is the ministerial affairs proceedings corner, it has diwans and a seat for Devi Ahilyabai, which I cannot even call as a throne. On the other side are some of the artifacts and paintings. Photography is strictly prohibited inside her home, however cheeky fellows were taking pics. Adjacent is another small museum kinds which include her pooja room and a small golden swing, the swing must have essentially been used to place God figurines during festivals or in her pooja room. And other simple items of yesteryears. [caption id="attachment_2059" align="aligncenter" width="960"]

Ahilyeshwar Temple aka Akileshwar Temple
Walking down the fort steps leads to the Ahilyeshwar temple by the Narmada ghats. Maheshwar is actually a temple town with tiny shrines found around every other corner. With the queen being a staunch Shiva deity, the Ahilyeshwar temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva. It is also the chhatri of Devi Ahilyabai meaning the memorial of the queen. There is a Shiva idol in the inner sanctum and it is a functioning temple even though it is a centopah. The entrance to this temple is a beautiful carved arch. Notice the Ganesha in the middle, the guardians on the side and the work further up. From here on you can spend hours looking at the distinct carvings and figurines. [caption id="attachment_2062" align="aligncenter" width="960"]






By the Narmada Ghat
Walking out of the Ahilyeshwar temple door leads to a flight of steps leading to the Narmada ghat. It is the pattern with which these steps are made that makes this fort unique, picturesque and a popular movie location spot. This is also one of the gates to the fort called Paani Darwaza as the entrance is from the Narmada river. The Narmada ghat that is immediately outside the Ahilya fort is popularly called as the Ahilya ghat. This is like the happening ghat with vendors selling stuff and boats plying to take you for a ride around the river. There are also normal row boats that seems to be taking people between the banks of the river. [caption id="attachment_2074" align="aligncenter" width="960"]




What to Buy at Maheshwar
Maheshwari Sarees - The Rehwa Society
One cannot miss the Rehwa Society in action while visiting the Ahilya fort. It was again Ahilyabai who made Maheshwar as the center of India's finest hand loom fabric collection. She brought weavers from around the Malwa region to design the Maheshwari saree. It is originally a 9 yard sari called Kasta sari or Nauvari. Nauvari is like the Maharashtrian style draping with the pleats tucked in the back and pallu draped around the shoulders. The most comfortable one for the queen to ride horses or get into the war field, the Kasta sari is believed to be designed for that. However now with modernization the Maheshwari silk is all about normal saree, salwar kameez or kurta. The Rehwa society was founded by the Holkars in the late 1970s to revive the tradition that was once the pride of Maheshwar and to give employment to women. Maheshwari silk is part cotton and silk or sometimes pure silk. The patterns are simple and elegant and the material is extremely light weight. The beauty of these patters are it is weaved in such a way that the border is reversible and you can wear the saree both ways. If you find Rehwa society to be expensive, there are many local house holds that you can find around the town who have hand loom at home and sell sarees in shop adjacent to their place. But purchasing a Maheshwari silk is something not to be missed. [caption id="attachment_2071" align="aligncenter" width="960"]


Banalinga
The other curious and interesting subject you will see in Maheshwar and more along the river Narmada is the Banalinga also known as the Swayambu Lingam, meaning formed by itself. The river in its due course leaves behind polished pebbles in the shape of Shiva Ling which is bought by people to pray at home. There is a legend behind this too. Narmada as I said before is a sacred river believed to have originated from Shiva and she has an alternate name as Shankari. And so it is no wonder that the pebbles that she touches takes the form of Shiva. Shiva Ling or a pebble whatever it may be, I was amazed with this stone creation and the pattern it leaves behind on the stones. On inquiring the shop keeper said, they collect the stones and polish it but the shape is cylindrical by nature and no alteration is done to it. [caption id="attachment_2047" align="aligncenter" width="984"]
How to Reach Maheshwar
The closest airport to Maheshwar is Indore. It is about 100km from Indore by road. The roads in this part of the state is good. I had hired a cab from Indore and covered Maheshwar, Omkareshwar and Mandu. [mappress mapid="32"]Pin It for Later Read
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Beautiful post Chittra 🙂 One of the unexplored historical place to visit.
Thank you Pamela 🙂 Yes it is.. kind of gaining attention now..
beautiful photos and lovely write Up.I too visited maheshwar in sep 2017, still memories are fresh in mind.Padman reviving it 🙂
Is it not! I think am gonna watch the movie for that 😀
lovely write up .post reminding my visit to maheshwar back in 2017
thank you so much 😀
I am from Bhopal.heard about maheshwar but never visited.your post has truly inspired me to visit soon thanks for sharing
Maheshwar is a beautiful place.. Mandu too..you can club these together
Very informative and great pictures. And the temples are wonderful, I long wish for a extended stay in India saved the post!
Hope you get to visit this place 😀
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What a comprehensive post and the pictures are simply stunning. With your blog, I have to make sure to have lots of time to read and reflect.
Slow claps.
Thanks Shubham, means a lot.. bookmark few more pages and read while chilling in the mountains 😀
Alright, this may have come late after our small talk on facebook. 🙂
I am surprised at the details that you have managed to capture, and share in your emotions. I am at times selfish with some of my clicks too, and I may publish a few in coming days (was already planning, your post gave in the boost).
I would love to explore the hinterland of complex stories that we have in India, albeit on two wheels. Reading about places that I may want to include in my itinerary, I really want to include Maheshwar in that list. It is going to be a dream ride, and I hope I can make it come true.
Thank you Hemal. Madhya Pradesh is blessed in that way. Maheshwar is not far from Indore. Plan a trip to Mandu, Maheshwar and Omkareshwar. You will have an awesome time 🙂